Caplansky’s Delicatessen

Great Deli Experience and worth the visit, but the smoked meat... BIG DISAPPOINTMENT.

It’s about time Toronto offered-up some proper delicatessen style fare and I gotta give Zane Caplansky some credit, because he really is trying. What started as a small outlet in The Monarch (a bar on Clinton Avenue just off College), is now all grown up and taken a leap for the big leagues, trying to make its mark as a true Jewish delicatessen with its own independent location.

From the paper placemats and plastic cups, to the Cott Black Cherry Cola; Caplanksy’s no question has all the check marks for a classic Montreal style deli. The menu at Caplansky’s is absolutely perfect, containing some all time fan favourites and unarguably, some good ‘ol comfort foodie choices. Incorporating challah bread, kosher pickles, potato latkes, Knish (puff pastry with meat or potato filling) and even Kishka (derma stuffed with all sorts of yummy goodness), there is a little something for everyone on the mouth watering itemized menu list (even if you aren’t a jew).

Although I stuck with the classic smoked meat during my visit (which I’ll address below), the breakfast combinations are priceless, including Bagel Lox and Cream Cheese, Versht (salami) and Eggs and of course, ‘The Speacial’, which provides a loaded plate of eggs, smoked beef bacon, latkes, toast and coffee. Lunch and Dinner combinations are equally salivating, including a number of deli sandwiches (Chopped Liver; Verscht; BBQ Brisket and a Smoked Meat Burger), Chicken Pot Pie and even a Steak. I can tell you that everything I saw coming out of the kitchen both looked and smelled D-licious.

Now, while my experience at Caplansky’s was far from a bad one, I am a smoked meat purist and my expectations are high. Bottom line, I was disappointed (as were many of my fellow McGill Alumni and the 60 year old ex-Montreal’r whom I was sitting beside). Although the taste is unique and yummy, the sandwiches aren’t stacked high enough, aren’t served hot enough and are way way way too dry. In all honestly, it kind of tasted like I was eating a beef jerky sandwich. It really is too bad.

With my doubled-fried French fries, pickle and black cherry cola, alongside my smoked meat, it was a great classic combo and I must admit, I was a happy-camper. However, at the end of the day, heading due north for a Centre Street Deli sandwich, at least provides you with some juicy, melt-in-your-mouth smoked meat.

My conclusion is that Centre Street Deli, Snowden Deli (MTL) and Schwartz’s (MTL) turnover much much more smoked meat in any given day, meaning the tender, juicy brisket stay’s fresh and melts in your mouth time after time. Unfortunately, it doesn’t appear to be the case at Caplansky’s, which just doesn’t have the volume and subsequently, the quality of the smoked meat suffers immensely.

Take my recommendations for what they are. I would in fact highly recommend a Caplansky’s experience to anyone and everyone, but I have to say, go for breakfast and stay away from the smoked meat.

HOURS: Monday to Sunday, 10:00am to 10:00pm
ADDRESS: 356 College St.
PRICE: $28 + tax + tip (Two Sandwich combo’s and two drinks)
WEBSITE: http://www.caplanskysdeli.com/

SOTTO SOTTO

AMAZING ITALIAN BUT GET READY TO SPEND...

Stepping out from the hustle and bustle of Yorkville and down below street level for a small taste of Italy, Sotto Sotto (or ‘down underneath’ in English) offers some of Toronto’s tastiest Italian fare. Expect to experience a family run restaurant that is passionate about fine cuisine, situated in a Roman wine cellar, very intimate, candle lit atmosphere.

Greeted by pictures of the plethora of superstars who have dined at Sotto (Pitt, PDiddy, Letterman, and the list goes on), expect to walk into a romantic but happenin scene, which often provides for some amazing people watching. I have been lucky enough to eat here a couple of times and while I understand that the overall experience disappoints most, I have quite enjoyed my meals and the atmosphere at this little restaurant.

The food is unarguably amazing and consistent. Sotto provides a nice choice of salads ($12 to $18) that incorporate selective and flavourful ingredients and a mouth watering selection of antipasti’s ($15 to $28) that have something for everyone. From succulent roasted veggies to a variety of meats and cheeses to grilled jumbo prawn and calamari, the antipasti’s have always been a highlight of my dinners at Sotto. As for the mains ($38 to $47), whether it’s the tender cuts of veal, grilled lobster tail served with fresh homemade pasta in a seafood bisque sauce, or the fillet mignon cooked to perfection in a truffle oil and peppercorn sauce, it’s always so hard to decide what to get! It’s worth noting (pasta orders aside) that each and every dish at Sotto is made fresh, served hot and so flavourful that your temples kind of hurt from your tongue and jaw cringing together with every bite - in a good way of course.

Now, all that said, there are some very important things that all should be warned about prior to making a reservation at Sotto. Where to start?

The service is pretty atrocious and the cleanliness of the bathrooms is even worse. Given the price tag on this meal (not to mention the mark-up on alcohol), you would hope that wait staff actually ‘serve on you’ and make the experience a ‘special’ one. Unfortunately, unlike the service at ONE or Canoe, Sotto staff completely drop the ball and I really fail to understand how the owners expect people to pay over $100 a head for a meal (more expensive than ONE and Canoe), with such terrible table manners.

Secondly, it is an extremely small and tight restaurant. So if you are the type of person who is looking for intimate privacy or will get agitated by the waiters bumping into the back of your chair, it’s not the place for you. One of my biggest disappointments during my most recent visit was that at the start of the meal, the waiter encouraged us to order all stages of our meal at once because the restaurant was apparently ‘busier than normal’. Well, provided the ‘Itlian style’ eating my guest and I were expecting, it wasn’t our first choice to do so, moreover, after taking the waiters advice, our mains came to the table before we had even finished our starters. Again, at the price tag Sotto Sotto is seeking, this is just unacceptable.

Another pretty big disappointment for me is the pasta. Where are the pasta appetizers? Where are the large bowls of pasta for the table? Where is the portion of pasta to accompany my main? Where are the meatballs Sotto Sotto? Not only is the pasta aspect of a traditional Italian meal in dire need of shaping-up at Sotto but the portion to price tag ratio was calculated by a 5th grader. Six small pieces of stuffed spinach and ricotta ravioli for $35? No Thanks!

I always find it easier to criticize than to compliment... so, after reading this review, you may fail to understand why I am recommending Sotto Sotto. Truthfully, I just wanted to prepare you for a number of crappy things that should be expected during your experience. At the end of the day, this is an incredibly expensive outing, but if you can get your head around the small things and are ready to drop some cash, Sotto Sotto really is fantastic Italian cuisine and a fabulous place to spend those once-a-year special occasions.

HOURS: Lunch and Dinner, last order, 11:00pm
ADDRESS: 116A Avenue Road
PRICE: $190 including tax + tip (2 glasses of wine, 2 appetizers, 2 mains)
WEBSITE: http://www.sottosotto.ca/

BISTRO 990

Great night out with your significant other, complimented by fantastic French fare...

In my opinion, Bistro 990 still has some kinks to work out (even after 20 some odd years on the block), however, there is no question that this charming, south of France environment and Toronto landmark, serves-up high quality fare, holding down its reputation as one of Toronto’s best. Although most locals in the city likely associate Bistro 990 with TIFF and the various celebs that frolick in and out during the festival, this non pretentious, wine cellar (vaulted ceilings) dining experience is open to everyone (who can afford it of course).

The minute you walk into this candle lit, fresh flower infused, atmosphere, you are greeted by a small but welcoming bar. Given Bistro’s extensive (yet highly overpriced) wine, scotch and beer list, it might be worthwhile showing-up 30 minutes before your reservation to have a drink and watch the crowd before you are seated. In addition, it will give you and your party a chance to relax with some ‘personal space’ because unfortunately, once you are seated, you will be cramped into the restaurant like an old fashion can of sardines. In some situations, it might be nice to squeeze in beside Clooney, Diaz, Pitt and the likes of high-society, but if you are trying to share a romantic evening with your significant other, don’t expect to hold a gushy private conversation.

Atmosphere aside, the big attraction at Bistro (as it should be) is the food. This French dining experience is hard to match in Toronto, with beautiful cheeses, French soups, mussels, oysters , a variety of meets (Veal, Fillet Mignon, Prime Rib), a number of fish choices (Salmon, Arctic Char, Cod), along with a fantastic assortment of desserts. During my last visit, I really enjoyed the lobster chowder with its smoky flavour (yet should have been served hotter), the house salad (with a great house vinaigrette), lemon and tahini infused risotto and easily my favourite of the night, the Fillet Mignon; which was cooked to perfection and noticeably high-quality beef with a texture like soft butter. What the Chef’s at Bistro have mastered, is the variety of sauces that accompany your meat. The roast shallot jus on my meat was a mix of buttery, peppery, red wine and cherry goodness; so good, I almost wanted a full cup of the jus for dessert. That said, I may take that comment back, knowing that Bistro’s famous Crème Brûlée is always on the menu and 100% worth a try.

With a number of checks on its scorecard, leave it to me to find a few negatives and given the price tag on Bistro, there are certainly some things worth noting. Generally speaking, the wait-staff at 990 are far from attentive and deteriorate the overall restaurant experience compared to the fantastic food. Sometimes, little things matter and unfortunately, Bistro does a really bad job with the small things in life. For example, no one takes your coat at check-in, no one refills your water, no one asks if you would like some fresh pepper or cheese with your meal and for a French restaurant, the bread was absolutely terrible. Even if 990 served Ace Bakery, it would be a world of improvement.

Let’s face it though, at the end of the day, you aren’t eating at Bistro for someone to pamper you and the bottom line is that this food is consistent, fresh, served very hot (most of the time) and absolutely mouth watering. Give it a try.

Recommendation: A night of sharing between you and your lover. Share the French onion soup and house vinaigrette salad, followed by one order of fish, one order of meat and the Crème Brûlée to finish.

HOURS: Lunch and Dinner, last order, 11:00pm
ADDRESS: 990 Bay Street
PRICE: $160 including tax and tip (2 glasses of wine, 2 appetizers, 2 mains, 1 dessert)
WEBSITE: http://www.bistro990.ca/

CENTRE STREET DELI

EASILY, TORONTO'S BEST SMOKED MEAT SANDWICH...

If you are seeking a true, traditional and classic Jewish deli experience, you’ve found it. With long line-ups of kvetching bubbies, wild little rug-rats running around unattended and overly aggressive staff directing your each and every move, this delicatessen is easily worth the wait (and provides for some of the best people watching in the city). Established in 1988 and a cousin of the infamous Snowdon Deli (and Schwartz’s competitor) in Montreal, Centre Street Deli has grown with Toronto (not to mention the Thornhill community) and there is no question it’s here to stay.

This establishment offers your typical deli environment with folded, laminated menus, a mix of tables and booths, cutlery and table settings from the ‘60s (including paper placemats) and an attentive wait staff, ensuring your cup of coffee is always hot and full. The menu is similar to the atmosphere and rather predictive, but with great diversity; including fresh juices, eggs, omelettes, deli sandwiches, non deli but (deli-ichous) sandwiches and a long list of yummy homemade baked goods and desserts. For breakfast, my favourites include scrambled eggs and salami (also known as eggs and vorscht) or the traditional bagel, lox (smoked salmon) and cream cheese. Unfortunately the bagels are not brought in from Montreal but to some (most?), you may prefer Centre’s Toronto style bagel.

Hands down the big attraction and reason Centre Street is on my list, is its absolutely huge, built proper, stacked high, juicy and dissolve in your mouth Old Fashioned Montreal-Style Smoked Meat. Centre Street has taken lessons and mastered from its older sister, Snowdon, producing one of the best hot sandwiches in the city. Although you can choose to order the regular smoked meat, I highly recommend the old fashioned, providing more flavour (but more fat) and extra yummy seasoning. In addition, Centre Street double-fry's its French Fries, giving them a not too greasy, crisp and tasty crunch. This sandwich is a divine culinary masterpiece and after spending time in Montreal both visiting family and at McGill, Centre Street provides me with fond memories that simply cannot compare or compete with most Toronto (corned-beef) imitators.

Although it’s a nuisance for most Torontonians to head north to Centre Street for brunch or lunch, I highly recommend the experience. *** Don't forget to hit-up the take-out counter on your way out as it's always nice to bring home a fresh rye, karnatzel, smoked meat (order it hot so its sliced thick!) and a box of party sandwiches.

Recommendation: Cott’s Black Cherry Soda, One order of Karnatzel (Jewish pepperoni stick); and the Centre Street Sandwich Special, choosing: Old Fashioned, Medium, Smoked Meat (on rye), hand cut double- fried French Fries, Coleslaw and a Pickle.

HOURS: 7:00 am – 8:00 pm; Daily.
ADDRESS: 1136 Centre Street, Thornhill
PRICE: $15 including tax + tip (Centre Street Sandwich Special)
WEBSITE: http://www.centrestreetdeli.com/home.html

THE ALPHORN

No top-rated food but good fun and a Collingwood staple...

This small Swiss restaurant, established in the early ‘80s, located in between Collingwood and Blue Mountain is a staple for winter regulars and holiday skiers. Welcoming both families and a rowdy 19-30 yr. old crowd, The Alphorn has a little something for everyone; a decent bar occupying one half and an approx. 50 seat restaurant on the other half.

The atmosphere at the Alphorn is what I’m sure, keeps most people coming back (although they really should ask for ID when someone claims it’s their birthday – it gets annoying). With classic chalet tables and a fantastic collection of memorabilia (autographed bibs and skis from famous racers, currency from all over the world, and other unique collector items like the 5 foot long watches) the restaurant provides a cozy feeling that I’m sure replicates a Swiss Alps equivalent. All that said, there is no question that the big attraction at The Alphorn is the unique copper bar that carries an extensive wine list, but most importantly, its “Beers of the World” passport, offering 40 different types, along with a featured “Beer of the Week”.

With printed ‘passports’, clientele are encouraged to write their name on an individual passport and check-off each beer that they drink (subsequently filing their passport for next time). It is also worth mentioning the giant blow horn and various bells that occupy the restaurant. Although the horn is just for fun, ring a small bell located above your table and you buy a round of shots for your table or, ding the large bell in the middle of the restaurant, and you’re on tap for an approx. $500 shot tab, having committed to buying the entire bar a shot.

While the atmosphere is pretty damn cool and certainly fun (assuming you can ignore the arrogant J. Crew and Abercrombie posse), the food is good but mediocre compared to Toronto options. The house specialty is wiener schnitzel (named the best in Canada by Ski Canada magazine; I would have to disagree) and other favourites include cheese and beef fondue (great cheese but in dire need of proper, fresh, bread for dipping), trout, steaks, and a number of traditional Swiss appetizers (raclette, buednerfleisch, and hearts of palm salad).

All in all, The Alphorn is a great alternative to the Kelsey's, Boston Pizza and other chain restaurants in Collingwood. Although I'm convinced that a few small (and easy) improvements to its fare could take this restaurant to the next level; I really enjoyed my first experience experience at The Alphorn and would recommend checking it out, at least once...

Recommendation: First pint (Erdinger ), second pint (Paulaner Weisse) , cheese fondue for the table, hearts of palm salad for the table and an individual portion of Schnitzel covered in cheese and peameal bacon. Note – Be careful in the parking lot as most of the local skiers do not understand the dangers of drinking and driving).



Hours: Varies with the Season (see website)
Address: HWY. 26 West, Collingwood, Ontario (705-445-8882)
Price: $70 for two including tax and tip. (Two Pints, Shared Cheese Fondue, Shared Salad, Shared Schnitzel)
Website: http://www.alphornrestaurant.com/