It’s about time Toronto offered-up some proper delicatessen style fare and I gotta give Zane Caplansky some credit, because he really is trying. What started as a small outlet in The Monarch (a bar on Clinton Avenue just off College), is now all grown up and taken a leap for the big leagues, trying to make its mark as a true Jewish delicatessen with its own independent location.
From the paper placemats and plastic cups, to the Cott Black Cherry Cola; Caplanksy’s no question has all the check marks for a classic Montreal style deli. The menu at Caplansky’s is absolutely perfect, containing some all time fan favourites and unarguably, some good ‘ol comfort foodie choices. Incorporating challah bread, kosher pickles, potato latkes, Knish (puff pastry with meat or potato filling) and even Kishka (derma stuffed with all sorts of yummy goodness), there is a little something for everyone on the mouth watering itemized menu list (even if you aren’t a jew).
Although I stuck with the classic smoked meat during my visit (which I’ll address below), the breakfast combinations are priceless, including Bagel Lox and Cream Cheese, Versht (salami) and Eggs and of course, ‘The Speacial’, which provides a loaded plate of eggs, smoked beef bacon, latkes, toast and coffee. Lunch and Dinner combinations are equally salivating, including a number of deli sandwiches (Chopped Liver; Verscht; BBQ Brisket and a Smoked Meat Burger), Chicken Pot Pie and even a Steak. I can tell you that everything I saw coming out of the kitchen both looked and smelled D-licious.
Now, while my experience at Caplansky’s was far from a bad one, I am a smoked meat purist and my expectations are high. Bottom line, I was disappointed (as were many of my fellow McGill Alumni and the 60 year old ex-Montreal’r whom I was sitting beside). Although the taste is unique and yummy, the sandwiches aren’t stacked high enough, aren’t served hot enough and are way way way too dry. In all honestly, it kind of tasted like I was eating a beef jerky sandwich. It really is too bad.
With my doubled-fried French fries, pickle and black cherry cola, alongside my smoked meat, it was a great classic combo and I must admit, I was a happy-camper. However, at the end of the day, heading due north for a Centre Street Deli sandwich, at least provides you with some juicy, melt-in-your-mouth smoked meat.
My conclusion is that Centre Street Deli, Snowden Deli (MTL) and Schwartz’s (MTL) turnover much much more smoked meat in any given day, meaning the tender, juicy brisket stay’s fresh and melts in your mouth time after time. Unfortunately, it doesn’t appear to be the case at Caplansky’s, which just doesn’t have the volume and subsequently, the quality of the smoked meat suffers immensely.
Take my recommendations for what they are. I would in fact highly recommend a Caplansky’s experience to anyone and everyone, but I have to say, go for breakfast and stay away from the smoked meat.
HOURS: Monday to Sunday, 10:00am to 10:00pm
ADDRESS: 356 College St.
PRICE: $28 + tax + tip (Two Sandwich combo’s and two drinks)
WEBSITE: http://www.caplanskysdeli.com/
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